Any extra maintenance and nurturing you do now will help restore your lawn back to full health, so that come next spring it will bounce back with vigour and strength.

We’ve prepared a few pointers to help you on your way. 

Clearing

Remove debris and some of the fallen leaves from your lawn so that light can still reach the grass evenly and doesn’t leave patches whilst still allowing the grass to breathe.

Weeding and moss removal

Early autumn is a good time to get to grips with the weeds and remove any seeds that have germinated. It’s also a preferred time for lawn treatments to prevent weeds from over wintering, or simply remove the weeds by hand if you only have a few problem areas (remember to get the roots though).

Cooler, wetter conditions can increase moss growth. Some moss is fine, but if you have a lot, it may be worth considering a moss treatment. Ideally, mow the lawn first, rake out the moss and then apply a moss killer to the remaining moss.  After applying a moss killer, wait a couple of weeks before raking out moss.

Raking and scarifying

Rake off (scarify) dead moss, old grass stems and any debris (thatch) vigorously to help fertilisers to penetrate and water to access the root system. If you need to apply chemical weed control do this at least a month or two before scarifying. Don’t apply any weed killer afterwards but wait until the following spring. 

Aeration

Aerating your lawn will allow for better movement of air in the soil and root system, therefore good preparation now gives it a better chance of recovery in extreme conditions. Depending on the size of your lawn, you can either hire an aerator or spike manually.

Remember to fertilise the lawn after aerating to produce deeper rooting.

Feed

This is also a perfect time to add fertiliser to your lawn. Autumn fertilisers are high in potash and phosphates, enabling recovery from the summer’s heat and protection from disease and the harsh winter conditions ahead. It also ensures your lawn remains a beautiful healthy green.

Warmth, moisture and fertiliser allows the grass to recover, so Autumn really is the optimal time for maintenance. For treatments to take effect, it’s good to start before temperatures really dip and growth stops.

Over-seeding

The soil is still warm at this time of year, so it is a perfect time to sow new seed and perk up a tired or damaged lawn. Wetter months offer ideal conditions for seeds to germinate. But be prepared to water them if the weather turns dry and avoid walking on the area until they have established. Ideally, prepare the area first by mowing and raking to give the seeds a better chance of taking root.

It’s important to fertilise and over-seed your lawn after raking or scarifying. If you don’t you’ll risk a slow recovery and patchy lawn with lots of weeds. So it really does pay to invest in your lawn in the autumn.

Mowing

Mowing can continue weekly as the levels of moisture continue to keep grass at it’s best. When the temperature cools and the growth rate decreases raise your mowing height on your mower a couple of settings at least until the spring. The last cut will probably be between October and November.

Laying new turf

This is the optimal time of year to lay turf:

• It has the best chance to establish quicker as the soil is still warm enough to stimulate root growth.
• The summer heat has gone so autumn rains don’t have chance to evaporate, providing much needed hydration.

From October onwards the speed of growth will slow down, but don’t let that discourage you: lawns can be ready for use within 4 weeks, that’s the beauty of autumn.

And, as the winter sets in you will be reassured that your new lawn is nicely established and can go to sleep whilst nature takes its course.

Key points

• Clear debris: Remove leaves and thatch so light and air reach the grass.

• Aerate, feed and reseed: Improve airflow, strengthen roots, apply autumn fertiliser, and over-seed bare patches.

• Lay new turf: Autumn’s mild temperatures and rainfall help new turf establish quickly.

Click here to find out more about laying turf 

We supply quality turf all year round.  If you would like further advice on lawn care this autumn or would like to talk to us about your order, please contact us on 01392 231040 or email sales@wesellturf.com

People often ask us what to do with them, why they have appeared and whether they are harmful to the lawn, children or pets.

The vast majority are harmless and contrary to popular opinion, most are not poisonous – and your pets are unlikely to eat them.

There’s no need to do anything with toadstools on your lawn, although you can just brush them away if you would like them gone. However, whether you remove them or not won’t make any difference to their spread, as spores from toadstools exist in the air all the time anyway.

Of the thousands of different types, only two main fungi could do actual damage to gardens. The rest of them will not cause any deterioration to lawns. The two to beware of are Armillaria (honey fungus) and Marasmius (a type of fairy ring). Other types of fairy ring are not harmful.

See the RHS website advice for how to identify and deal with these two specific fungi:

RHS Toadstool Advice

Other related articles: Autumn Lawn Care

Key points

• Don’t worry unnecessarily about the appearance of toadstools on your lawn
• Do a quick check if you think they are Armillaria or Marasmius

We supply quality turf all year round. If you would like any further advice on lawn care or would like to talk to us about your order, please contact us on 01392 231040 or email sales@wesellturf.com

The impact of leaves on your lawn

A thick blanket of leaves can create problems for grass health. When leaves pile up and remain damp, they block sunlight and restrict airflow, creating the perfect environment for mould, fungi, and lawn disease. Over time, this can weaken or even kill patches of grass. In extreme cases, lawns can suffocate under too much leaf cover, leaving your garden with bare or patchy areas in spring.

However, a light scattering of leaves is unlikely to cause significant harm, particularly if you mow the lawn occasionally. Mowing over dry leaves chops them into smaller pieces, which decompose faster and actually return nutrients to the soil, providing a natural, free fertiliser.

What about new turf?

If your lawn has only recently been laid, it’s important to keep it free from fallen leaves. New turf needs plenty of light, air, and water to establish strong roots. A covering of leaves can increase the risk of fungal disease and other problems, which slow down growth. Use a soft rake, brush or a leaf blower on a low setting to clear debris without disturbing the turf. Once the grass has rooted properly you can start mowing and treating it much like an established lawn.

The case for wildlife

Leaves play an important role in the garden ecosystem. Hedgehogs, frogs, toads and insects all use fallen leaves for shelter during colder months. Caterpillars and other small creatures feed on decaying leaf matter, while birds benefit from the increased food supply. By leaving some leaves in borders, under hedges, by outbuildings or in quieter corners of the garden, you will be creating valuable habitats for wildlife without compromising your lawn.

Best of both worlds

A balanced approach is perhaps the best option. Rake or mow leaves from the central lawn areas to keep the grass healthy. Then gather them into piles in less-used spots or spread them across flowerbeds. This way, your lawn remains in good condition while local wildlife enjoys a safe haven.

What to do with collected leaves

If you do rake leaves, there are several ways you can put them to good use:

Make leaf mould: collected leaves can be stored in a bin bag or wire cage to slowly decompose. This will give you a nutrient-rich soil conditioner.

Use as mulch: spread shredded leaves over garden beds. These help to insulate soil, suppress weeds and retain moisture.

Add to compost: by mixing leaves with grass clippings and kitchen waste, you can create balanced compost.

The verdict!

Leaving a few leaves is good for wildlife and the overall garden ecosystem, but a thick layer on your lawn can cause damage. So, aim for a compromise. Clear most of the leaves from grassy areas, then recycle the leaves into mulch, compost, or wildlife-friendly piles. Your lawn will stay healthy, your garden creatures will thank you, and nothing will go to waste.

Key Actions

• Clear thick layers of leaves from your lawn regularly to keep grass healthy and prevent disease.
• Leave some leaves in borders, hedges, or corners to provide valuable shelter for wildlife.
• Recycle raked leaves into compost, mulch, or leaf mould so nothing goes to waste.

If you would like further advice on looking after new turf, please contact us on 01392 231040 or email sales@wesellturf.com

1. Roots are still developing
   When turf is first laid, the grass relies on a thin layer of soil within the turf itself. The roots have not yet grown down into the underlying soil, so the turf cannot access deeper reserves of moisture. In hot, dry conditions, the shallow soil quickly dries out, leaving the turf stressed. Established lawns, on the other hand, have deep, well-developed root systems that can draw water from lower levels, making them more resilient.
2. Lack of reserves
   Mature grass plants have built up carbohydrate and energy reserves over time, which help them withstand periods of drought. Newly laid turf has been recently harvested and transplanted, which can cause a degree of stress. Without established reserves, new turf is less able to cope with water shortages and temperature extremes.
3. Greater risk of gaps and shrinkage
   If new turf dries out, the edges of the rolls can shrink and curl, creating gaps in your lawn. Once this happens, weeds may take hold, and the lawn’s appearance can be permanently affected. Regular watering in the first few weeks is essential to keep the turf plump and the seams tight. You can water new turf even during a hosepipe ban, for the first 28 days after installation.
4. Heat stress is more damaging
   Dry weather is often accompanied by intense sunlight. Without an established root system, new turf cannot replace water lost through evaporation quickly enough, and the grass blades can scorch. Brown patches can develop rapidly, and recovery can be slow.

How to care for new turf in dry weather

• Water thoroughly and consistently: for the first two to three weeks after laying, water every day in the early morning or evening to minimise evaporation. Use a sprinkler or hose with a fine spray to ensure even coverage. The goal is to soak the soil beneath the turf so roots grow downwards.
• Check moisture levels: lift a corner of the turf occasionally to check the soil underneath. If it’s dry, it needs more water.
• Avoid heavy use: keep foot traffic to a minimum until the turf has rooted in, as this prevents damage to fragile roots.
• Mow carefully: Wait until the turf is well rooted before mowing for the first time. Set the mower blade high to avoid stressing the grass.

While the extra care may feel like hard work, especially during a dry spell, the effort will pay off. After around six to eight weeks, your new turf should have developed a strong root system and will be far better equipped to cope with dry conditions, much like an established lawn. With the right start, you’ll enjoy a healthy, resilient lawn for years to come.

If you would like further advice on looking after new turf, please contact us on 01392 231040 or email sales@wesellturf.com